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Journey to the Amazon
PART I
Village of Porveneer
by Kosa Ely
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Rising early, before any hint of the
dawn, we prepare for our full day’s
journey to Porveneer. By 4:30 am the
boats are loaded with bags bearing
gifts, our day packs, and a cooler
full of fruits. The motors are
running and the boatmen are calling
us to board.
The village of Porveneer is a native
Shipibo community off the Ucayali
River in the Amazon Rainforest. This
community has chosen to keep their
culture and heritage intact, and
remains relatively aloof from the
modern world. Almost two hundred
miles upriver from Pucallpa, the
last town with electricity, this
journey would take us four or five
days in the usual mode of
transportation - a dugout canoe. |
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We are not traveling in canoes
today. Our modern boats and 40
horsepower engines should get us
there in five or six hours. But
unlike the modern world, here we are
as children, vulnerable and
submissive; this land and this river
are much more powerful than any of
us, we know to expect the
unexpected.
The loud sputtering of the motor
makes conversation a chore. I allow
my attention to be engulfed in the
scenery around us. The wind gently
whips my hair, and the rhythm of the
boat plying on the water courses
through my body. |
The river is much broader than I
expected, and surrounds us in all
directions. The sky, too, expands
without limit. As the sun rises in
the East, we witness a gallery of
original art, painted in the sky and
water, changing from moment to
moment.
All of my senses are heightened, yet
there is no satiation. From the
inner depths of my being I feel
powerfully connected with this river
and sky and forest, and the emotion
that rises within speaks, “Don’t let
this ever end…”
Remembering Yesterday
It was only yesterday our party of
fourteen arrived in Pucallpa, Peru,
led by our
veteran guide and explorer, Amazon
John Easterling. John has made more
than 170 trips to the Amazon
rainforest over the last 26 years,
building relations with the
Indigenous people and working with
them in partnership. Those of us
accompanying John are distributors
with the Amazon Herb Company, and
for most of us, this is our first
rainforest expedition.
After lunch we set out across the
lake to visit the Amazon Herb
Ecological Reserve. It’s a short
boat ride, and as we approach the
shore, we notice how much lower the
river is than the bank. During the
rainy season the strong rains raise
the river level as much as 40 feet.
The thatched roof huts are built on
stilts five to ten feet above the
ground. On many of the trees we can
see the watermark and envision the
land here submerged under water.
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There are a few families living
here, overseeing the reserve and the
Camu Camu grove. After
introductions, several of the
men accompany our group on a hike of
the medicine trail, and a few of the
children, excited to have foreign
visitors, lead the way.
The first part of the medicine trail
takes us to the grove of Camu Camu
trees. The small red fruits from
this tree contain the highest source
of natural vitamin C known. I have
tasted the dried Camu Camu powder,
and am eager to eat the fruits from
the tree. |
“These trees are under water for
about three months during the rainy
season,” Amazon John informs us
while filling our hands with the
small, round, fruits. “During our
recent harvest, we brought in 13,000
kilos of Camu Camu, giving us 650
kilos of dried Camu Camu powder.”
I eagerly pop one in my mouth. It is
crunchy, and tart, now sour as
anything. Enjoying the burst of life
energy and vitamins contained in
these fruits, I’m on to the next. I
feel blessed to be tromping around
this Camu Camu grove, leisurely
munching on these nutritional
treasures.
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Hiking into the interior of the
jungle, there is a repertoire of
screeches and calls from monkeys and
birds hidden from our view. The
bright sun, eclipsed by the towering
trees above, fails to reach the
lower part of the forest. Looking
upward, I see the tall trees set in
shafts of sunlight, as gemstones are
set in gold.
There is a multitude of living
creatures residing here. We stop to
watch the leaf-cutting ants parading
across a fallen tree. Alberto, a
Shipibo shaman (medicine man)
introduces us to the medicinal
plants growing in the wild: the
imporuru trees, the ayahyasca vine,
the una de gato vine, the graviola
trees.
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Finding an area laden with Uña de
gato vines, our other guide stepped
from the trail to cut the vines for
us. A moment later, he let out a
deep yell, quickly followed by the
loud thump of his machete. Wiping
the sweat from his forehead, he
pointed to a bushmaster snake (known
in the jungle as Hargong) that now
lay unconscious on the jungle floor,
less than two feet from our trail.
The bite from these snakes is the
number one cause of death in this
part of the Amazon. Looking at this
3 foot snake, pale green with light
color markings, I am surprised how
innocent it looks, compared to
cobras and rattle snakes.
David reached over and picked the
snake up, having his friend
photograph him while holding it. “I
wouldn’t do that if I were you,”
cautioned Amazon John. “The snake’s
not dead, and even if it was, it
could still bite. When the Hargong
bites, you have thirty minutes,
perhaps an hour, to live.” Without
protest David returned the snake to
the jungle floor. A few minutes
later the poisonous snake was
killed. It was the thirty-third
Hargong that had been killed on the
reserve this year. |
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Returning his attention to the uña
de gato vines, our guide began
cutting 3 foot sections of the vine,
peeling back the thick, outer bark,
and handing them to us. The uña de
gato vines are as thick as some tree
branches, and grow as much as one
hundred feet in length. Within these
vines pure, refreshing water is
stored. Anytime one needs water in
the jungle, they can utilize the uña
de gato vines.
Offering a prayer of gratitude to
the earth and the forest, I open my
mouth to catch the dripping nectar.
As the drops trickle into my mouth
and down my throat, I am surprised
by the subtlety of its taste. The
‘taste’ is the energetics of the
vine itself. It is very refreshing. |
After our hike, Alberto and his wife
Elisa, who is also a shaman,
accompany us across the lake to our
Rainforest Lodge. After dinner we
are invited to meet with them. They
have brought plant medicines and the
ayahuasca brew for sampling.
Their beautiful ceremony, singing,
and teaching lasts late into the
night. “Every tree, every plant, has
a spirit. Plants are live beings. A
plant may not talk but there is a
spirit in it that is conscious, that
sees everything,” Alberto explains.
Part of their training is to be able
to communicate with the plant
spirits, and receive their healing
skills from them. “That is why our
people, the Shipibo people, always
ask permission of the plant spirit
before cutting.”
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Back in the Boat
A small fish lands at my feet on the
floor of our boat, bringing me back
to the present. The fish, desiring
desperately to be returned to the
river, flops about helplessly. Kathy
scoops him into her hands and
returns him to the water. Within
minutes another fish lands in the
boat. After the fourth fish has been
returned to the river our boatman
chuckles, “Piranhas, those are
piranhas.”
In my reflective and meditative
state, more than five hours have
mysteriously passed as we’ve
journeyed the Rio Ucayali. We are
close to our destination now. A
beautiful white bird is flying ahead
of our boat. Around several bends of
the tributary and out into the open
waters, the bird continues to guide
our boat and lead us to the village
of Porveneer.
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In the distance we can see the
entire village on the bank of the
river, waiting to greet us. Their
drums are beating. Colorful
clothing, then smiling faces come
into view. As soon as our boats dock
at the riverbank, the Shipibo
children and youth clasp our hands,
assisting us out of the boats, onto
their land. |
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As they lead us to the dancing
arena, their warmth and friendship
are way beyond anything I could have
anticipated. In all of my travels
abroad I have never felt so welcome
upon my arrival. Dancing with a
handsome Shipibo youth, we exchange
smiles and laughter.
After dancing we are seated on
wooden benches, and served masato, a
ceremonial fermented drink made from
yucca. The chief and elders of the
community honor John and thank him
for all he has done for them. The
affection and appreciation between
these villagers and John is
incredible to witness first hand.
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While they perform their traditional
dances for us, I enjoy watching
their faces, observing the children,
and photographing as much as I can.
Fortunately, they are eager to pose
for photos, and after the dances,
one after another they approach me,
requesting me to take their picture.
The young men like to pose alone,
holding their ceremonial club and
looking grave. The young girls,
giggling, gather a friend or two, to
have their picture taken together.
The men bring their wife and
children for a family portrait. The
chief wants his picture taken with
us. What a treasure these photos
will be.
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We have brought gifts of clothing,
shoes, and school supplies. It is
their custom to offer a gift after
receiving one. As they receive their
gifts from us, they in turn decorate
us with their beautiful handmade
necklaces and bracelets.
Amazon John has a gift he personally
brought for their village, three
solar lanterns with lightweight
solar panels. John asks them to try
them, and if they work well he will
bring one for every family. Huge
smiles and cheers of approval
resound. |
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Next they invite us to the
marketplace they’ve set up for us.
What a pleasure to view and purchase
their hand painted and embroidered
cloths, carved instruments, rain
sticks, and other handicrafts. I buy
something from each family, pleased
to have such valuable gifts to bring
home.
Lunch is served, and the village
band starts playing again. One by
one, our new Shipibo friends ask us
to dance. Amazon John, Koda Sun, and
David slip away, and when they
return their faces are painted with
traditional Shipibo designs.
Amazon John and Martin learn from
the chief that loggers are
threatening their tribal land again,
and he needs their help. Although
they have the rights and deeds for
their land, it is an ongoing struggle to protect it. John and
Martin assure him they will start
their team of lawyers on it, and
they will meet with him again next
week.
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It is past three o’clock and the
boatmen are anxious to leave. For
our safety, they do not like to
travel in the dark. More dangerous
than the fallen trees and unexpected
weather, are the occasional river
pirates that plunder, and sometimes
kill, travelers.
Still I am reluctant to go, wishing
we had more time for goodbyes. From
the boats our eyes meet, and we all
wave and smile, and the drums are
still beating. |
Before long, our American warriors
are taking siestas in the boats.
Tomorrow we will visit the village
of Puerto Firmesa, and our Amazon
Herb Co. facility in Pucallpa. We
will also get to see the tribal
handicrafts, pottery and painted
cloth that are shipped abroad, as
part of Amazon Herb Co.’s Manos de
la Tierra (Hands of the Earth)
program. This program gives the
tribal women the opportunity to earn
money while sharing their beautiful
art and culture.
Four rainbows appear, each unique
unto itself, on our return journey.
The full moon begins to rise on the
Eastern horizon as the sun begins
its descent in the West. The clouds
continuously dance in formations
across the vast sky, playing with
the light of the sun and the moon,
and their dance, in its entirety, is
reflected in the river waters
surrounding us.
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We are racing the setting sun. Now
we journey in the dark. Fortunately
the light of the full moon helps the
boatmen navigate the black waters.
We’re all intensely quiet, each of
us internalizing this day of days,
feeling our lives changed, our
consciousness altered, and a kinship
with the villagers of Porveneer that
we will never forget.
The beauty and serenity of this
magical land, its healing
botanicals, and its native people,
has shifted my personal definition
of prosperity. From the inner depths
of my being I am powerfully
connected with this river and sky
and forest, and I know now this will
never end. |
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